After schlepping his troupe of bedraggled pioneers across the country and over the Rocky Mountains, Mormon leader Brigham Young arrived in 1847 at this valley shimmering with the Great Salt Lake and declared: This is the place. Today, Salt Lake City remains the epicenter of the Mormon universe but has increasingly attracted pilgrims of a different sort: skiers, snowboarders, mountain bikers, and climbers. The Wasatch Range, a ragged edge of 11,000-foot mountains, is a 30-minute drive from downtown and offers hundreds of miles of trails and four world-class ski resorts. Though its focal point is Mormon Square, complete with the elegant Mormon Temple, the city embraces a diversity of faiths, and, yes, even a bit of hooch. Come evening, local skiers and bikers test their tolerance at Squatters, one of the citys thriving brewpubs.